Istan is a charming village that is located halfway up the northern side of La Concha Mountain, just a few kilometres inland from Puerto Banus. Overlooking the reservoir that is formed by the Presa de la Concepcion dam, the village’s dramatic location ensures it attracts a steady stream of tourists throughout the year; not only is Istan extremely beautiful but it is also very accessible too – just a short drive up the winding mountain road from Marbella and Puerto Banus.
The village dates back to Moorish times and appears, at first glance, to be literally in the middle of nowhere. Yet it is Istan’s relative isolation – particularly before the main road was laid – that has ensured its survival; during the Christian reconquest, many Moorish coastal settlements were destroyed in order to restrict Arab communication between Iberia and the neighbouring Morocco. Istan – hidden behind the mountain – was allowed to remain.
Tightly cobbled streets and squares, steep roads, whitewashed buildings and small tapas bars jostle for space throughout Istan, where time often appears to have stood still as the locals go about their daily business: old men sit on shady benches, playing backgammon, discussing politics and staring – often with incredulity – at the procession of foreign tourists who come to wander throughout these very streets, while the village’s women folk fill buckets and jugs with the fresh mountain water that pours from the fountains, hang washing from lines across the streets and berate their children for playing too loudly. It certainly is an enduring experience to see a different side to Spain, so close to the coast.
